Custom Upholstery

In this issue we are going to move on to the next phase of the interior on our project 635csi, or "Bavarian Baller." Here we cover custom upholstery for the front and rear seats. While we want to maintain that classic 635 look, we also want to give it the appearance of custom. To do this, we're going to dress up the front and rear seats with sandstone gray suede inserts, satin black genuine leather and, to give it a sporty appearance, sandstone gray piping trim.
Next Rick will remove the headrest and the left and right recliner mechanism (Note the torque cable that connects at the front lower section of each recliner mechanism). To disconnect, carefully remove the faceplate at the lower section of each recliner mechanism, detach the cable and reinstall the faceplate so that the gears inside don't fall out. Later we'll follow this same process during reassembly.
Now that the seat cover is removed, put locator markings (use chalk or a pen) on the old seat cover where you feel it might be important. These marks will be transferred onto the new material when you begin cutting out the patterns. These locator marks are very helpful when sewing together the new seat cover because they keep all parts aligned and in their proper place.
Unstitch the old seat cover into its individual parts. To do this, most trimmers use a one-sided razor blade-be very careful! Using a razor blade is fast and easy, but caution must be taken when in use and after use. Never throw razor blades in a trash can-use a small canister with a lid, ask someone or call the razor manufacturer for the proper disposal procedure. I know this sounds silly, but I've seen a guy go and search the trash can for a misplaced part only to come out with a bloody thumb and pass out on the floor.
Note: Bucket seats usually have a left and right seat. If this is the case with your project, cut out all the patterns for the front passenger seat bottom first and write "PASS" on the edge of all the new pieces to identify them as the passenger seat pattern. After cutting out the patterns, flip each one over face down and use them to trace out the patterns for the driver's side and mark those "DR" to identify them as the driver's side. This way we won't mix our passenger patterns with the driver's side patterns because if we did, we'd end up with some Quasimodo-looking seats.
This method works well for beginners because the old seat covers are actually teaching you how to make patterns and how a seat cover is constructed. Later you'll develop your own method of pattern making and how to construct a seat cover. For now though we will use this same process of unstitching, marking old seat covers and flipping patterns for the front and rear seats.
Before upholsterer Rick Mena gets started, here are some notes:Have a marker, masking tape, plastic ziplock bags and, if possible, a digital camera. Use the marker and tape to label electrical plugs, seat tracks mechanism, recliner mechanism, etc. Use the plastic bags for your different screws and small parts. Label each bag so you can quickly identify them later. With the digital camera you can take all the pictures you want and use them later for quick reference.

Installing Capacitors - How To

This month I took a break from my Civic Si build project to look at a subject that I'm frequently asked about-capacitors and how to wire them correctly. Here is a hands-on approach to install capacitors and trunk-mounted batteries.
To start, I'll explain what a car audio capacitor really is. It's a storage device for electrons (electricity) and is very similar to a battery. But the main difference between the two is that a battery uses chemical reactions to produce the electrons while a capacitor simply stores energy. A capacitor consists of two conducting plates separated by an insulating piece or dielectric. Car audio capacitors store energy for dynamic peaks, which can greatly improve your stereo system. Extra batteries produce and store energy for extended play on your stereo system. Capacitors discharge very rapidly, while batteries tend to discharge very slowly.
Capacitance, or the amount of energy stored, is measured in farads. Most car audio capacitors are one-half, or 1 farad. Capacitors should be pre-charged before installation. This enables them to reach their maximum storage limit without damaging the electrolytic. It also allows the unit to be installed without arc-welding your connection to the teminal. Use care when charging a capacitor and always do it with a resistor. I typically use a 100-watt, 8-ohm resistor, available at most electronic surplus stores. Most caps come with a 1K resistor, which will work but will take a while and the leads will get extremely hot. If you must use this resistor, hold it in place with pliers. First, ground your capacitor. Then, before connecting 12-volt power to your cap, take out the fuse under your hood and put the resistor in its place. Basically, just touch the leads where the fuse would normally go. Next, connect power to the capacitor. It's also a good idea to have your voltmeter monitoring the cap's terminals so that you can watch the charging process. Once the cap gets up to 12 volts you can take out the resistor and reinstall your fuse.
Capacitors should be placed within inches of your amp in order to maximize the performance of your system. It's also important to remember that, while a fuse should be used to protect your system, it must be placed on the charging line feeding the capacitor, NOT after. A fuse inserted between the capacitor and amplifier becomes a resistor, essentially rendering the capacitor useless.Next month we will continue on with the Civic build and take a look at the creation of some custom parts of the car. Until then, e-mail me your thoughts and questions: info@jasonsyner.com.

Body Kit Part 1 - How -To

This month we are starting a two-part article on the installation steps and custom bodywork required to install an aftermarket body kit on my project Civic, which includes several handmade additions. The methods presented in this article can be used as a guideline for most body kit installations. Keep in mind that all body kit components must be securely bolted to your car so that they cannot be dislodged during high-speed travel or in the event of a collision.
Most custom cars have some sort of extra body components and almost all tuner cars seen at car shows have some sort of aftermarket body kit. When I'm at car shows, the first thing that people usually ask me about is the body kit on my '05 Civic Si. When I purchased the body kit, I already had plans to add some custom pieces of my own to accent the factory bodylines of the Civic and this particular kit enabled me to do just that.
You can use many different techniques for installing a body kit. A cordless drill, a tap-and-die set and stainless steel SAE bolts were the tools that I used to attach the body kit to my car. Some shops use a product called Panel Bond by 3M, which is a permanent attachment to the car, and it greatly reduces your working time. My approach takes a little more execution and time, but gives me the flexibility to remove any single piece of the 11-piece body kit at any time. In the event that it gets scratched, cracked or damaged, I can simply detach the damaged piece and repair it without having to touch any of the other pieces on the car.
Body kits are usually made out of fiberglass, and the more expensive kits are usually made out of polyurethane. The kit I chose had a mixture of polyurethane and fiberglass parts. The poly parts are the lower body components on the car and have a flexible structure. In the event that they rub on the pavement or a curb, they won't crack like rigid fiberglass parts might.
I have installed numerous body kits over the years from various manufacturers and all of the kits needed a lot of custom bodywork before installation. This kit was no exception, despite its high price tag. I was determined to make it work on the car, and hopefully this article will help others with their body kit installations.
Next month, we'll continue this two-part article and look at the custom paintwork on the body kit and the custom hood. Until then e-mail your questions or comments to info@jasonsyner.com.